Beef and more beef

Argentineans are known by their beef consumption. The most common cuts served at restaurants are the bife de lomo and the bife de chorizo. The first one comes with no fat, and it’s a little more expensive. Both are boneless, juicy and tender. I usually asked for one-half bife, which was plenty. Side dishes include papas fritas (French fries,) papas rejilla (crispy round fries with holes,) puré de papas (mashed potatoes,) pureed pumpkin and salad. They’re ordered separately. At an average restaurant, a good bife goes for $12-$14 and the sides for $6-$7. That’s a lot of food.
There are many other beef cuts, of course. If you ask for a parrilla, it comes with tripe, kidney, sausage and other meats. It will feed at least two very hungry people.

Empanadas, yum!

Argentineans give themselves the honor of having invented the empanada. I didn’t want to argue with them about it. I grew up eating empanadas (especially on Sundays) and I am Peruvian. However, empanadas are everywhere in Buenos Aires. These delicious stuffed turnovers come with different savory fillings. Among the common ones are beef, chicken, ham and cheese, Salteña (with potatoes to extend the filling) and humita (corn.) They are usually baked but sometimes fried, and they’re deliciously crispy. You can see how they’re made at some restaurants, and you can identify the filling by scrutinizing the shape of the empanada. They’re cheap to eat, too. They usually sell for 3 or 4 pesos ($1 U.S. equals 3.8 pesos).

Colorful fake money

In Buenos Aires, bills come in different colors and designs. Colors indicate the denomination and the quality of the paper helps you identify whether a bill is fake.
Despite using mostly buses and trains I couldn’t resist the occasional convenience of a taxi. But beware! Taxis are usually where you get counterfeit bills.
“It’s sad but taxis are the place where you get a false bill,” leather goods salesperson Marita told me when I shared my story. “Taxi drivers identify you as a tourist and they give you change with bad money.” Giovanna, an employee at a cashmere goods store at Florida Street, said “when you take a taxi, you pay with the exact amount, always.”
A friend and I took a taxi to go see a tango show and we paid with a 100-peso bill. All our change came back fake. In the dark and in the rush to arrive on time, I just placed the money in my wallet.
When the show was over, we took another taxi back home. When I paid the 12-peso fare with a 50-peso bill the driver held it up and said, “This is fake.” I was dumbfounded. I gave him another bill and his answer was the same. I didn’t know what to do, as he was getting uneasy. “That’s not my problem,” he said. I asked him to take us to an ATM to get money. My friend rushed to the ATM and came back with two 100-peso bills. I gave him one, as I was getting ready to exit the car. “I have no change for 100,” he said. I couldn’t believe it. By that time the meter showed more than 16 pesos.
“What do you suggest we do then?” I asked. “Give me whatever you have,” he responded immediately. I handed him seven pesos.
The day after, when I was shopping with that 100-peso bill, I realized the taxi driver had switched the ATM real bill for a fake one. “That’s a known practice,” Marita, the saleswoman, told me with a shy smile.