Negotiating your taxi ride

Taximeters are not a feature in taxi transportation in Lima. All fares are negotiable. Taxis will honk at you trying to get your attention. You can size them up before you accept their friendly invitation and see if the model, size or appearance fulfills your desires. They can be modern, old, ugly and uglier. Once you stop one, you ask something like: “How much is it from here to (your destination)?” The cab driver will size you up and say a price. If you feel it is on the “expensive” side you give a counter offer. He can get back at you with something in between and if you feel comfortable you just hop in. That simple. And there is no surcharge if there are more than two passengers. But always have change since drivers don't usually have change.
For U.S standards, taxis are very cheap in Lima. Three dollars can drive you two miles. Gasoline is more expensive than in the United States but these drivers work for very little. From what I have seen a lot of these drivers exercise this job when unemployed. A lot of them rent the cars from other people and work them in two shifts of 12 straight hours. I have also noticed some of these cars use natural gas instead of gasoline, which is cheaper and cleaner. And you don’t tip. It’s not customary. But beware of the ones who will notice you have an accent or look like a tourist. They will ask you for a higher price.

Tipping?

Not in restaurants. Not in taxis. Of course, a waiter will be very happy if you do tip, and the taxi driver will be very surprised.
This is something a lot of tourists find a little confusing and sometimes unfair, but it’s part of the local culture. When you pay at a restaurant there is a sales tax and a service tax already included.
In Peru, everything comes with the tax built-in as part of the final price, so what you see on the restaurant menu, the supermarket or the department store is what you are going to be charged. Salons, spas and barbershops expect tips but not at the 15% rate. A couple dollars will suffice.
Credit cards? They are widely accepted. But if you ask for a discount (at a crafts market, for instance) you will be asked to pay in cash.

Colorful fake money

In Buenos Aires, bills come in different colors and designs. Colors indicate the denomination and the quality of the paper helps you identify whether a bill is fake.
Despite using mostly buses and trains I couldn’t resist the occasional convenience of a taxi. But beware! Taxis are usually where you get counterfeit bills.
“It’s sad but taxis are the place where you get a false bill,” leather goods salesperson Marita told me when I shared my story. “Taxi drivers identify you as a tourist and they give you change with bad money.” Giovanna, an employee at a cashmere goods store at Florida Street, said “when you take a taxi, you pay with the exact amount, always.”
A friend and I took a taxi to go see a tango show and we paid with a 100-peso bill. All our change came back fake. In the dark and in the rush to arrive on time, I just placed the money in my wallet.
When the show was over, we took another taxi back home. When I paid the 12-peso fare with a 50-peso bill the driver held it up and said, “This is fake.” I was dumbfounded. I gave him another bill and his answer was the same. I didn’t know what to do, as he was getting uneasy. “That’s not my problem,” he said. I asked him to take us to an ATM to get money. My friend rushed to the ATM and came back with two 100-peso bills. I gave him one, as I was getting ready to exit the car. “I have no change for 100,” he said. I couldn’t believe it. By that time the meter showed more than 16 pesos.
“What do you suggest we do then?” I asked. “Give me whatever you have,” he responded immediately. I handed him seven pesos.
The day after, when I was shopping with that 100-peso bill, I realized the taxi driver had switched the ATM real bill for a fake one. “That’s a known practice,” Marita, the saleswoman, told me with a shy smile.

Taxi, taxi?

Taxis are expensive in Italy. With gasoline going for 1.45 euro (US$2.25) a liter (there are almost 4 liters in a gallon), I avoided taxis and took them only from and to the airport. Just the flag fall is 4.25 euro (U.S. $6.60).
When you need a taxi, you call a cab company. Trying to set my departure from Florence, I called the cab company the evening before because I had heard from a colleague that taxi companies wouldn’t take reservations days in advance. The operator told me: “We are 24 hours [sic]; call tomorrow.”
The next day, one hour prior to the time I needed an airport taxi, I called again. Before I could explain anything, the operator said: “It will be there in 3 minutes.” When I said I needed it within an hour, he told me to call back when I was ready. I was getting a little worried I wouldn’t make it on time.
After rushing around and triple-checking that I wasn’t leaving anything behind, I called back.
“It will be there in 5 minutes,” he said. Three minutes later, I saw a taxi waiting on the street.
The driver was a middle-aged man, easy to talk to, but only in Italian. I am so glad I am able to make myself understand in that language.
He started the conversation by asking where I was going: “Parigi,” I responded, and from there, we didn’t stop talking until we got to the airport. He introduced himself as Matteo and asked me if I was going to come back to Florence. “Maybe next year,” I said. To my surprise, he said: “I’ll give you my address and next time you stay with us.”
He meant what he said. Hiding my surprise, I thanked him and paid my 23-euro ride that took 15 minutes.