The Peruvian food boom

Peruvians are very proud of their cuisine. Once you get into that subject, Peruvians can’t stop talking about it. The melange of Andean, Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese with some Italian and French influences make of this food a varied and exquisite fare. Lima has been declared the gastronomical capital of the Americas and according to several tourism operators, the “Peruvian gastronomical tours” have increased dramatically this millennium. That means that some tourists visit Peru just to try its food. In 2004, The Economist magazine said that "Peru can lay claim to one of the world's dozen or so great cuisines. "
Potatoes are native to the Andes and according to the International Potato Center Peru produces 2,400 varieties of this tuber. So imagine the variety of dishes that Peruvians create with potatoes. Try the “Papa a la Huancaína,” “Causa Limeña” or “Papa Rellena.” But the most popular Peruvian dish is “ceviche,” (pictured left) chunks of sea fish marinated in lime juice, chile peppers and onions. Seafood is popular in this country since the generous Pacific Ocean that bathes the entire coast produces a huge variety of fish, like sea bass, sole, corvina, cod, snapper and an enormous array of other fruits of the sea like octopus, mussels, clams, shrimp, crab, squid, and scallops. A whole cornucopia that can also be part of the ceviche. Africans contributed with the cooking styles and the use of everything that was eatable. Chinese brought the use of rice (Peruvians eat rice every day) and the sauteing technique along with the use of soy sauce and ginger. Later, the Japanese, Italian and French immigrants brought their own additions.
Peru produces its own kind of native chile peppers (ají,) which offer its food a unique taste. Most of its dishes have ají to give color and flavor. The Peruvian salsa, called "salsa criolla," is a mix of feathered red onions, lime juice, salt, pepper, oil and ají strips, and it's a fabulous accompaniment to a Chicharrón sandwich (pictured above.)

Water, bread and asking for the check

Unless you go to a posh restaurant when you go to eat out you usually choose where to sit. Once at your table the waiter will come, greet you and take your order. Don’t expect a cheery waiter. They are usually helpful but quiet.
If you want water you will need to ask for it. The waiter will give you a choice of natural or carbonated water (¿con gas o sin gas? —with or without gas?) and you’ll pay for it, usually as if it were a soda. And if you want bread, you will also ask for it and be charged for it.
There are some restaurants that charge you a “silverware fee” (derecho de cubierto) and that includes the bread and butter. So don’t be surprised if it comes with your bill.
Once I ate at a nice restaurant in Miraflores called T’anta, one of the eateries owned by Gastón Acurio, the most renowned Peruvian chef who also owns restaurants in Latin America, Spain and the U.S.
I chose an “Ají de gallina” (pictured left) and it was delicious. I asked for bread and I found that I was charged 1.50 soles for it (around fifty cents.) Curious about the name of the restaurant, I asked the waiter what T’anta meant. He answered, “It means bread in Quechua” and I added with a smile, “And you charge for it?”
One more important thing: Waiters won’t come to ask you how you are enjoying what you are eating; not even once. And when you are finished they won’t come with the bill until you request it. It is considered extremely rude to interrupt or to bring the bill without asking for it. It would mean that they want you to leave.
So get ready to enjoy a delightful meal without waiters coming to cut into your conversation every five minutes. Love it.

Coffee and water

When you order an espresso beverage, it comes with a glass of water. Espresso also is served this way in Italy. A lot of Argentineans are of Italian descent (and that’s probably why they speak Spanish with an Italian accent.)
The particularity of this custom is that the water comes in a tiny glass, which would be strange for Americans — especially water without ice.

Water, soda, wine?

Wine is consumed with every meal. When you go to a small eatery and ask for the fixed priced menu, your drinks of choice can be soda water, regular soda or wine. Wine, clearly, is very cheap in Argentina. Malbec is a typical red wine from the region of Mendoza, and it can be found in the wine stores and supermarkets of Buenos Aires. As in the United States, wine prices vary, but local wines, whatever the grape, are definitely cheaper. I remember getting a decent bottle of vino blanco for $2.

Empanadas, yum!

Argentineans give themselves the honor of having invented the empanada. I didn’t want to argue with them about it. I grew up eating empanadas (especially on Sundays) and I am Peruvian. However, empanadas are everywhere in Buenos Aires. These delicious stuffed turnovers come with different savory fillings. Among the common ones are beef, chicken, ham and cheese, Salteña (with potatoes to extend the filling) and humita (corn.) They are usually baked but sometimes fried, and they’re deliciously crispy. You can see how they’re made at some restaurants, and you can identify the filling by scrutinizing the shape of the empanada. They’re cheap to eat, too. They usually sell for 3 or 4 pesos ($1 U.S. equals 3.8 pesos).

Chicken has a place, too

If you’re tired of beef, Milanesa and Suprema are good alternatives. They both are boneless and breaded chicken cuts, flattened like sheets, seasoned and fried to crispy perfection.
“What is the difference between a Milanesa and a Suprema?” I asked a waiter at a restaurant in the swanky Puerto Madero area. “Milanesa is made with dark meat and Suprema with white,” he responded. I understood then why Suprema is “supreme,” but I still liked the Milanesa better.
Order it with a salad or mashed potatoes instead of just fries. Otherwise it can taste a little dry.

One, little two, little three, little dishes

Antipasto, primo, secondo, contorno, dolci and caffè would be the food order in Italy.
It seems like a lot of food, but remember that they come in small portions.
On a daily routine, Italians have a primo that it's usually pasta and a secondo which is some kind of protein: beef, chicken, fish or cheese. The contorno or side-dish comes separate, so get prepared to pay for it additionally when you go to a restaurant. Everything comes on a different plate.
This order can be a little confusing for other westerners. To have a salad not as a first dish but after the secondo? To have cheese after the pasta?
Well, I have learned to follow the host country habits because it makes for a more authentic cultural experience. I would rather not be singled-out or laughed at because of my ignorance. Before coming to Italy I did some research about the culture.
I would recommend not to even think about asking for chicken cacciatore or Chicago pizza. You can always go to McDonald's (if you get really desperate) which has become quite popular.