Travels' troubles

Lima is Peru; beauty and chaos

2010-04-19T18:46:00.004-05:00

Lima was founded in 1535 and became the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru. It was the most important city in South America for three centuries. It hosted the Viceroy, the Inquisition and the Royal Audience. Its colonial architecture with exquisite wooden balconies and indoor patios with fountains can be still appreciated in the downtown area that has two main squares: The Plaza Mayor where the cathedral and the presidential palace are located and the Plaza San Martín, a few blocks away, where the famous Hotel Bolívar is.
With its explosive growth and the Andean migration during the 20th century, Lima grew out of proportion and very disorganized. Dictatorships and terrorism made it a non-friendly tourist destination. For decades Peru was synonymous with coca traficking, the Shining Path and Alberto Fujimori, the Japanese-descended president that Peru had for over 11 years, who is currently in prison.
Lima has dramatically improved in the last two decades but contrasts and chaos are still part of its culture. From the majestic Plaza Mayor you can see poor homes built on the slopes of a close by mountain, all in one view.

Walk at your own risk

2010-04-19T18:06:00.024-05:00

It may not sound credible but in Lima pedestrians do not seem to have the right of way; motor vehicles do. So pay attention even though you may think you are a good multitasker (talk on the phone, read the paper and cross the street at the same time).
Lights at the corners do not assure anybody that cars will respect them carefully. Stop signs that warn us with their octagonal red presence can be perceived as complete corner decorations in this buzzing metropolis.
In this chaotic city, cars and buses drive with abandon. Of course, there are policemen and traffic lights but drivers approach the streets as being in a Formula One race. Lanes become just lines on the road; the fact that the road is divided in parts doesn’t mean that drivers will choose one of them. I have been in taxis when the whole road is empty and drivers go in the middle of two lanes. A road can be divided in four lanes and you may be in one of the seven (yes, seven) cars that want to share those four lanes across the road. Cars cut into each other with total sense of confidence and entitlement. An inch of space between cars is an accepted occurrence. You will feel your heart is pumping quite fast when you are at the mercy of your conductor.
Driving in a car in Lima can really man you up.
If someone cuts you off and you yell at the driver who did this, you’ll get immediately yelled back at. I heard a driver saying: “Lima is the only city in the world where the people who made a mistake while driving insult you.”
In this circus-like spectacle, pedestrians have to act with special care. Motorbikes, trucks or cars will try to get the right of pass without a second thought. While walking in the city you need to develop a seventh sense so you don’t get hit. Forget about the rules of the road in the U.S and you’ll be fine. (Video courtesy of Laura Nalin)

Negotiating your taxi ride

2010-04-15T21:20:00.004-05:00

Taximeters are not a feature in taxi transportation in Lima. All fares are negotiable. Taxis will honk at you trying to get your attention. You can size them up before you accept their friendly invitation and see if the model, size or appearance fulfills your desires. They can be modern, old, ugly and uglier. Once you stop one, you ask something like: “How much is it from here to (your destination)?” The cab driver will size you up and say a price. If you feel it is on the “expensive” side you give a counter offer. He can get back at you with something in between and if you feel comfortable you just hop in. That simple. And there is no surcharge if there are more than two passengers. But always have change since drivers don't usually have change.
For U.S standards, taxis are very cheap in Lima. Three dollars can drive you two miles. Gasoline is more expensive than in the United States but these drivers work for very little. From what I have seen a lot of these drivers exercise this job when unemployed. A lot of them rent the cars from other people and work them in two shifts of 12 straight hours. I have also noticed some of these cars use natural gas instead of gasoline, which is cheaper and cleaner. And you don’t tip. It’s not customary. But beware of the ones who will notice you have an accent or look like a tourist. They will ask you for a higher price.

Helpful and inviting people

2010-04-15T21:00:00.004-05:00

It’s not likely that people smile back at you when walking through Lima. You may feel they are not friendly. But if you ask them for help it’s likely that they will stop and take some time to assist you. Of course, life can be very busy down there but the clock is not the king of the universe.
Peruvians in Lima are willing to help visitors. They seem to be happy to share their culture with tourists and to make them feel welcome. One afternoon, while walking with a group of students along the Malecón (boardwalk) in Miraflores by the ocean, a Peruvian woman who heard us speaking in English asked us where we were from. When she found out we were from Chicago, she invited us (a group of 15 people) to her condo. She was very excited because her husband was a native Chicagoan and wanted him to meet us. We spent 20 minutes at her beautiful condo overlooking the Pacific. Some of the students were surprised by such a gesture. Even though this is not something that would happen all the time, it’s more likely for people to be more open and take the time to share what they have and what they know. So if you get lost, you can be sure that you’ll find someone who will be willing to share his time with you.

The Peruvian food boom

2010-04-15T19:12:00.020-05:00

Peruvians are very proud of their cuisine. Once you get into that subject, Peruvians can’t stop talking about it. The melange of Andean, Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese with some Italian and French influences make of this food a varied and exquisite fare. Lima has been declared the gastronomical capital of the Americas and according to several tourism operators, the “Peruvian gastronomical tours” have increased dramatically this millennium. That means that some tourists visit Peru just to try its food. In 2004, The Economist magazine said that "Peru can lay claim to one of the world's dozen or so great cuisines. "
Potatoes are native to the Andes and according to the International Potato Center Peru produces 2,400 varieties of this tuber. So imagine the variety of dishes that Peruvians create with potatoes. Try the “Papa a la Huancaína,” “Causa Limeña” or “Papa Rellena.” But the most popular Peruvian dish is “ceviche,” (pictured left) chunks of sea fish marinated in lime juice, chile peppers and onions. Seafood is popular in this country since the generous Pacific Ocean that bathes the entire coast produces a huge variety of fish, like sea bass, sole, corvina, cod, snapper and an enormous array of other fruits of the sea like octopus, mussels, clams, shrimp, crab, squid, and scallops. A whole cornucopia that can also be part of the ceviche. Africans contributed with the cooking styles and the use of everything that was eatable. Chinese brought the use of rice (Peruvians eat rice every day) and the sauteing technique along with the use of soy sauce and ginger. Later, the Japanese, Italian and French immigrants brought their own additions.
Peru produces its own kind of native chile peppers (ají,) which offer its food a unique taste. Most of its dishes have ají to give color and flavor. The Peruvian salsa, called "salsa criolla," is a mix of feathered red onions, lime juice, salt, pepper, oil and ají strips, and it's a fabulous accompaniment to a Chicharrón sandwich (pictured above.)

Tart, sweet and refreshing

2010-04-14T18:51:00.010-05:00

Pisco originated in Peru after the Spanish conquest. This aromatic brandy is the base of the national cocktail: the Pisco sour. Made from distilled grapes, pisco and pisco sour have been in the center of a controversy about its origin with its southern neighbor country: Chile.
Peruvians and Chileans have kept a grudge since the War of the Pacific that started in 1879 where Peru and Bolivia lost a big portion of their territories. The pisco issue has deepened into the old animosity.
Some say that the problem is that Peru failed to register the name pisco as France did with Champagne, for example.
The Peruvian Pisco sour cocktail is a blended mixture of pisco brandy, lime juice (Peruvian limes are very acid,) sugar or simple syrup, egg white and ice. Some recipes call for a couple drops of Angostura bitters and a little sprinkled powder cinnamon over the foamy top. In 2003, February 8 was institutionalized as the “National day of the Pisco Sour.” If you want to keep Peruvians on your side, you don’t want to make comparisons with its Chilean counterpart.

Big, humid and dry—no rain

2010-04-14T18:32:00.006-05:00

Lima is the fifth largest city in Latin America. It is home to almost a third of the country’s population of over 29 million according to the 2009 census estimate. Lima lies on a coastal desert and presents very mild temperatures, the lowest being 54 degrees in the winter and up to 88 degrees in the summer. It never rains but it is humid all year round. Winters are foggy and misty and for Americans this metropolis can be depressing in June, July and August. Remember that seasons are reversed since Peru is in the southern hemisphere. Beware if you are prone to Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD.)
No, Lima it’s not on the Andes but right at the coast. Foreigners tend to believe that all Peru is mountainous. It is a city of contrasts where extreme poverty shares the city with colonial architecture, booming districts and a western lifestyle. It’s not uncommon to see barefoot beggars walking by people getting out of Mercedes Benz sedans.

Music is gonna get you

2010-04-13T18:58:00.007-05:00

With three distinct geographical areas, Peru is divided in every aspect of its cultural manifestations, including music. It has a vast variety of dances and musical genres. The coast (Costa), the Andes (Sierra) and the rainforest (Selva) produce different cultural expressions.
Among the most popular dances I can mention is the Marinera, a beautiful flirtatious dance from the northern Peruvian coast. There are annual contests looking for the best Marinera dancers. It is acknowledged as the national dance of Peru, as the tango is for Argentina. There is also the Peruvian waltz and polka that are part of what is called “música criolla.” From the southern coast the Afro-Peruvian rhythms come: the landó and the festejo. These dances are usually presented in a frantic and exhilarating fashion and Peruvians are very proud of this heritage. The wooden box (cajón)and the quijada de burro (donkey’s jaw) are the most recognizable instruments. Music ensembles like Perú Negro and singers like Tania Libertad, Eva Ayllón and Susana Baca (the only Peruvian artist who has gotten a Grammy) are the most recognizable voices that interpret the black rhythms.
Probably the most identifiable music from Peru comes from the Andes. “El Cóndor Pasa” written by Daniel Alomía Robles and popularized internationally by Simon & Garfunkel is probably the song that foreigners recognize the most along with songs that use the zampoña (panpipe) and quena (Peruvian flute.) The huayno and huaylash are probably the most recognized Andean dances. A lot of these rhythms are presented in weekend shows at places called “peñas,” and there are several of them that cater to tourists like “La Candelaria” and “Brisas del Titicaca” where visitors can spend an entertaining and colorful fun night.

Water, bread and asking for the check

2010-04-13T18:20:00.009-05:00

Unless you go to a posh restaurant when you go to eat out you usually choose where to sit. Once at your table the waiter will come, greet you and take your order. Don’t expect a cheery waiter. They are usually helpful but quiet.
If you want water you will need to ask for it. The waiter will give you a choice of natural or carbonated water (¿con gas o sin gas? —with or without gas?) and you’ll pay for it, usually as if it were a soda. And if you want bread, you will also ask for it and be charged for it.
There are some restaurants that charge you a “silverware fee” (derecho de cubierto) and that includes the bread and butter. So don’t be surprised if it comes with your bill.
Once I ate at a nice restaurant in Miraflores called T’anta, one of the eateries owned by Gastón Acurio, the most renowned Peruvian chef who also owns restaurants in Latin America, Spain and the U.S.
I chose an “Ají de gallina” (pictured left) and it was delicious. I asked for bread and I found that I was charged 1.50 soles for it (around fifty cents.) Curious about the name of the restaurant, I asked the waiter what T’anta meant. He answered, “It means bread in Quechua” and I added with a smile, “And you charge for it?”
One more important thing: Waiters won’t come to ask you how you are enjoying what you are eating; not even once. And when you are finished they won’t come with the bill until you request it. It is considered extremely rude to interrupt or to bring the bill without asking for it. It would mean that they want you to leave.
So get ready to enjoy a delightful meal without waiters coming to cut into your conversation every five minutes. Love it.

Tipping?

2010-04-13T14:17:00.004-05:00

Not in restaurants. Not in taxis. Of course, a waiter will be very happy if you do tip, and the taxi driver will be very surprised.
This is something a lot of tourists find a little confusing and sometimes unfair, but it’s part of the local culture. When you pay at a restaurant there is a sales tax and a service tax already included.
In Peru, everything comes with the tax built-in as part of the final price, so what you see on the restaurant menu, the supermarket or the department store is what you are going to be charged. Salons, spas and barbershops expect tips but not at the 15% rate. A couple dollars will suffice.
Credit cards? They are widely accepted. But if you ask for a discount (at a crafts market, for instance) you will be asked to pay in cash.

Beautiful fruits

2010-04-09T22:33:00.006-05:00

Going to an open market can be quite an adventure. If you are queasy, avoid going to the meat and poultry section. You’ll see cuts of meat hanging in open spaces. You can even ask for your own live chicken to be butchered, feathered and cut for you. It couldn’t be fresher. You can buy fish that had been alive in the ocean hours earlier.
But if you want to be delighted with multicolored views and fragrant smells, just walk around the fruits and vegetables areas. Having such benign weather, there is plenty of fresh produce in the markets in Lima all year round. Papayas, passion fruit, mangoes, star fruits, quinces, chirimoyas and lúcumas share the space with the common bananas, oranges and apples.
Chirimoya and lúcuma are fruits native to Peru and they are used in desserts like mousses, pies and ice creams. Simply delicious.

Can you spare some change?

2010-04-09T22:14:00.013-05:00

In Lima you will find beggars everywhere, especially in the touristy areas. Shoeless mothers with babies, toothless older women sit on the sidewalks stretching their hand for anything you can give them. The saddest part is that you will see lonely children harassing you to buy some candy or chewing gum. Some of their stories are heartbreaking. Beggars are willing to do something in return for your money; they just don’t ask. They either sell something or try to entertain you. You’ll hardly find anyone asking you for “one dollar” as you may encounter in the U.S.
I have seen kids dancing on the streets, playing music with improvised instruments, doing tricks and somersaults in the middle of the roads at the red lights; even spitting fire as if they were in the circus.
Once, while in a taxi, the car stopped at the red light; a boy approached the car and started singing. The poor kid was so out of tune and right in my face. He must have been 8 years old. I asked what his name was and he said: “José.” I reached to my pocket and gave him one sol, the equivalent of thirty cents. He seemed happy despite knowing he would never be on “American Idol.”

Alpacas are not always "Baby"

2010-04-09T21:48:00.008-05:00

One of the most luxurious wools is the one that comes from the alpaca, a camelid native to the South American Andes. Out of the four native camelids (the others are the llamas, vicuñas and guanacos), alpacas are the most widely known. Vicuñas are an endangered species and its wool is extremely expensive.
Baby alpaca wool is quite soft. So when shopping for Alpaca goods—scarves, hats, sweaters, ponchos, you name it—beware of the vendors who will try to convince you that their goods are “baby alpaca.”
You don’t need to be an expert to notice what is baby alpaca or not. Adult alpaca wool can be a little thicker and itchy. It also comes blended with synthetic materials, so if you see that the garment is a little shiny that means that it’s not pure alpaca wool. A textile artist told me that real alpaca feels cold when you touch it.
Once when I was shopping a vendor kept saying that his goods were baby alpaca. I responded with a smirk: “I think these are from the grandma alpaca.” Fortunately he had a good sense of humor.

Fly, robin, fly

2010-04-09T21:30:00.005-05:00

When you walk around the Malecón (Boardwalk) in Miraflores you will see people paragliding over what is called the “Costa Verde,” or “Green Coast.” It has become part of the coastal landscape in this district. You can spend time enjoying the vast ocean view with these flying devices sprinkled in the sky.
For US$50 you can have your ten minutes of Icarus glory and see this coastal city from above. It is an exhilarating experience, a little steep for Peruvians but quite affordable for American standards. So far, no accidents have been reported and even an 85-year-old Peruvian grandmother “La abuela voladora” has done it (I later learned she is the mother of a college classmate.) But digging a little bit deeper, one of my students who went up in the air found out that the company who runs this activity is not registered with the city and has no insurance. Another incredible third-world story.

Lack has a "green" face

2010-04-09T21:18:00.005-05:00

As a third world country, Peru has a “natural” recycling process. Glass bottles are exchanged when getting beverages (beer and soda for example), plastic containers are used as “tupperwares”, and appliances get repaired at cheaper costs. Labor is way cheaper compared to the U.S.
It’s not uncommon to see older car models, even from the sixties, running around the city. Peruvians say that “lack and adversity make people resourceful.” I completely agree with that.
In Lima we can see more shoe repair shops, tailors, car mechanics. You can find that anything can be repaired to extend its life. During my trip to Lima I took my reading glasses to be welded, and I paid 10 soles (a little bit over 3 dollars). A leather jacket was cleaned, tinted and reconditioned for 50 soles (18 dollars) a pair of jeans were hemmed for 6 soles, a little over 2 dollars. Not bad, at all.
Maids are also common in Lima and you don’t need to be rich to have a live-in maid.

The Argentinean kiss

2009-08-21T22:22:00.005-05:00

In Latino cultures, kisses on the cheek as a greeting are commonplace, and they typically occur between people of opposite sexes (unless a young boy kisses his dad, of course.) But in Buenos Aires, men greet men friends with a kiss on the cheek.
I was invited by a colleague to give a presentation at the Universidad Nacional de Quilmes. When he greeted me, he smiled and kissed me on the cheek. It caught me by surprise and I tried to cover it up by giving him a hug.
After the class, he invited me to his house for dinner. He introduced me to his wife and children, two boys and a girl. There were kisses for everybody.
My friend said: “Here, we greet with a kiss; I noticed you felt awkward when we met.”
I enjoyed a delicious empanada dinner with the family, along with lots of laughter and red wine. When I said good-bye, I was completely comfortable with man-to-man kisses.

Run, Elio, run

2009-08-21T22:14:00.005-05:00

Argentina claims to have the widest avenue in the world. Avenida 9 de julio —July 9, in honor to its independence day— is 460 feet wide. The “Obelisco,” a monument located in the middle, is a city landmark. White and tall, it resembles the Washington Monument in Washington D.C.
This avenue has 16 lanes, and it looks like a boulevard with benches, trees, flowerbeds and fountains. You can try to cross it in one attempt, but you won’t be able to do it merely by walking fast. The one-minute you have between light changes won’t be enough. I crossed it successfully but had to almost jog. A taxi driver told me that some old folks take a cab to go from one side to another.

Tango for everybody

2009-08-21T21:55:00.005-05:00

When you think of Argentina, the first thing that comes to mind is the tango. It can be sexy and elegant but also voluptuous and extravagant, depending on the style and the venue. In Buenos Aires, porteños (people from Buenos Aires) capitalize on the tango’s fame and practice it in public. Tourists gather around couples who dance on streets and in plazas and parks. They often leave money for the dancers.
Tango is not a popular dance among youngsters. As in other Latin American countries, rock and pop music rule. However, young people are aware of the dance and proud of it. In recent years, the tango has enjoyed resurgence. A version is performed to electronic music from groups like the Gotan Project and Tanghetto. (Remember that sexy scene with Jennifer López and Richard Gere in “Shall we dance?”) The traditional tango is presented in a variety of venues. One of them, “El Viejo Almacén,” established in 1969 (declared a “site of cultural interest”) is in the San Telmo neighborhood. It’s a beautiful locale that offers tango shows every day of the year. The two-hour show is spectacular.

Coffee and water

2009-08-21T21:51:00.002-05:00

When you order an espresso beverage, it comes with a glass of water. Espresso also is served this way in Italy. A lot of Argentineans are of Italian descent (and that’s probably why they speak Spanish with an Italian accent.)
The particularity of this custom is that the water comes in a tiny glass, which would be strange for Americans — especially water without ice.

Water, soda, wine?

2009-08-21T21:20:00.003-05:00

Wine is consumed with every meal. When you go to a small eatery and ask for the fixed priced menu, your drinks of choice can be soda water, regular soda or wine. Wine, clearly, is very cheap in Argentina. Malbec is a typical red wine from the region of Mendoza, and it can be found in the wine stores and supermarkets of Buenos Aires. As in the United States, wine prices vary, but local wines, whatever the grape, are definitely cheaper. I remember getting a decent bottle of vino blanco for $2.

Beef and more beef

2009-08-21T21:00:00.003-05:00

Argentineans are known by their beef consumption. The most common cuts served at restaurants are the bife de lomo and the bife de chorizo. The first one comes with no fat, and it’s a little more expensive. Both are boneless, juicy and tender. I usually asked for one-half bife, which was plenty. Side dishes include papas fritas (French fries,) papas rejilla (crispy round fries with holes,) puré de papas (mashed potatoes,) pureed pumpkin and salad. They’re ordered separately. At an average restaurant, a good bife goes for $12-$14 and the sides for $6-$7. That’s a lot of food.
There are many other beef cuts, of course. If you ask for a parrilla, it comes with tripe, kidney, sausage and other meats. It will feed at least two very hungry people.

Empanadas, yum!

2009-08-21T20:47:00.011-05:00

Argentineans give themselves the honor of having invented the empanada. I didn’t want to argue with them about it. I grew up eating empanadas (especially on Sundays) and I am Peruvian. However, empanadas are everywhere in Buenos Aires. These delicious stuffed turnovers come with different savory fillings. Among the common ones are beef, chicken, ham and cheese, Salteña (with potatoes to extend the filling) and humita (corn.) They are usually baked but sometimes fried, and they’re deliciously crispy. You can see how they’re made at some restaurants, and you can identify the filling by scrutinizing the shape of the empanada. They’re cheap to eat, too. They usually sell for 3 or 4 pesos ($1 U.S. equals 3.8 pesos).

Chicken has a place, too

2009-08-21T20:35:00.004-05:00

If you’re tired of beef, Milanesa and Suprema are good alternatives. They both are boneless and breaded chicken cuts, flattened like sheets, seasoned and fried to crispy perfection.
“What is the difference between a Milanesa and a Suprema?” I asked a waiter at a restaurant in the swanky Puerto Madero area. “Milanesa is made with dark meat and Suprema with white,” he responded. I understood then why Suprema is “supreme,” but I still liked the Milanesa better.
Order it with a salad or mashed potatoes instead of just fries. Otherwise it can taste a little dry.

For the sweet tooth

2009-08-21T20:29:00.004-05:00

There is nothing better than an alfajor, two cookies stuffed with dulce de leche and covered with glacé (a smooth paste of icing sugar dissolved in a little water, which is spread straight onto the alfajor), chocolate or simply powder sugar. You can find them at eateries, restaurants, bakeries, cafés and even convenience stores all around Buenos Aires.
Alfajores are of Arab origin and they arrived in Latin America via Spain.
They're a staple in Argentina but can be found all over Latin America. The name “alfajor” remains the same in other Latin countries, but the filling, a sweet caramel-like cream made with milk, sugar and vanilla, is called “dulce de leche” (sweet of milk) in Argentina. Peruvians call it manjarblanco, Colombians arequipe and Mexicans cajeta.

Plug it (the right way)

2009-08-21T20:22:00.003-05:00

Outlets still have three holes but in different directions: one prong is vertical while the other two are diagonal. It’s always important to check on those details before you travel. Electricity is 220 volts, so you will need a converter. Fortunately my computer and my phone had their own converters. Once you get to Buenos Aires, you may need to run to the hardware store and get one.

Colorful fake money

2009-08-21T20:16:00.003-05:00

In Buenos Aires, bills come in different colors and designs. Colors indicate the denomination and the quality of the paper helps you identify whether a bill is fake.
Despite using mostly buses and trains I couldn’t resist the occasional convenience of a taxi. But beware! Taxis are usually where you get counterfeit bills.
“It’s sad but taxis are the place where you get a false bill,” leather goods salesperson Marita told me when I shared my story. “Taxi drivers identify you as a tourist and they give you change with bad money.” Giovanna, an employee at a cashmere goods store at Florida Street, said “when you take a taxi, you pay with the exact amount, always.”
A friend and I took a taxi to go see a tango show and we paid with a 100-peso bill. All our change came back fake. In the dark and in the rush to arrive on time, I just placed the money in my wallet.
When the show was over, we took another taxi back home. When I paid the 12-peso fare with a 50-peso bill the driver held it up and said, “This is fake.” I was dumbfounded. I gave him another bill and his answer was the same. I didn’t know what to do, as he was getting uneasy. “That’s not my problem,” he said. I asked him to take us to an ATM to get money. My friend rushed to the ATM and came back with two 100-peso bills. I gave him one, as I was getting ready to exit the car. “I have no change for 100,” he said. I couldn’t believe it. By that time the meter showed more than 16 pesos.
“What do you suggest we do then?” I asked. “Give me whatever you have,” he responded immediately. I handed him seven pesos.
The day after, when I was shopping with that 100-peso bill, I realized the taxi driver had switched the ATM real bill for a fake one. “That’s a known practice,” Marita, the saleswoman, told me with a shy smile.

Bookstores galore

2009-08-21T20:06:00.003-05:00

I was impressed by the number of bookstores in Buenos Aires, especially in the Recoleta neighborhood. Most of them are independent. (I didn’t see any Borders or Barnes & Noble stores.) Argentina is an important book publisher in Latin America.
Roaming through books is an activity that offers quiet and solace in a bustling city like Buenos Aires and people walk through aisles constantly.
“El Ateneo” is the bookstore that impressed me the most. Located in an old and elegant theater —whose original name was “Grand Splendid”— on Santa Fé Avenue, the building has been adapted for its new purpose. The foyer is magnificent and ornate; the seating area (where most of the bookshelves are located) has been cleared and made level with the stage, which has been turned into a coffee shop. When you enter the theater, you see a bluish stage filled with patrons chatting and skimming books. Patrons read in the balconies, and the mezzanine has more books. The painted high ceiling is magnificent and has been refurbished to its original glory.

Do I want a wimpy ice cream?

2009-08-21T19:53:00.007-05:00

Just like businesses in other countries, Argentinean companies like to use foreign-sounding names sometimes. I ran into two examples that made me laugh. One was an ice cream store next to the Plaza del Congreso named Wimpy. I wondered whether the store’s owner knew what the word “wimpy” would mean to Americans.
While walking in the posh Retiro area, there was another store that caught my attention: Breeder’s. It’s not a fertility clinic or a sex store; it’s an upscale furs goods store.
Translations for English speakers can also lead to misinterpretations.
When you exit the Cathedral in the main plaza (Plaza de Mayo) where the Casa Rosada (the presidential house) is located, you’ll find a box asking for money to support the worship. They have translated worship as “cult.” Quite different.

The mullet

2009-08-21T19:53:00.000-05:00

I was intrigued by the haircut common among the men of Buenos Aires. It’s “mullety,” and the men look as if they’re stuck in the late ’70s. They reminded me of David Cassidy in “The Partridge Family.” I noticed this first while I was on the plane bound for Buenos Aires. Then, while walking around the city, I started paying more attention. I saw lots of guys with the same kind of haircut. It was usually on the long side and very different from the styles popular in the States now. No crew cuts, spiky shapes or pointy tops.

Cats in the park

2009-08-21T19:52:00.001-05:00

I am a cat lover. When I visited the Jardín Botánico (Botanical Gardens) in the Palermo neighborhood (open daily and it’s free), I saw a cat at the entrance. I grabbed my camera and shot a picture of the welcoming feline.
The gardens are a peaceful area in the middle of the noisy city and have samples of plants, trees and bushes that the public is allowed to touch.While following the curvy paths of the garden, I started to see more cats frolicking in the sun. It got my attention.
Then I saw a black cat and I followed him. All of a sudden, he became agitated and began climbing trees in a frenzy. I think he thought he was a puma.This garden is home to more than 100 cats. They are tame and come to rub their bodies against you. They also follow you around. A woman entered the gardens, and all of a sudden, cats came from everywhere. It looked like a scene from a Hitchcock movie. They knew she had something in her bag for them.As for dogs, owners walk them – just like in the States. With fall temperatures in the high 50s, I saw dogs dressed in colorful jackets. Tourists should be careful while walking. Owners don’t always feel compelled to clean up after their pets.

Medieval labyrinth

2008-09-10T18:04:00.005-05:00

If you're left in Florence's historical center without a map, you're in trouble.
Coming from Chicago and being used to living in a grid, where I can find where I am pretty easily, I was completely disoriented by Florence.
The center of the city is Piazza della Repubblica. Designed by the Romans, the blocks have mostly 90-degree angles. But when you walk three blocks away from that piazza in any direction, the medieval city starts.
You come across narrow streets going in different directions. Nothing is perpendicular or parallel, and the risk of getting lost is higher.
It may take you a month to orient yourself. A straight street may suddenly become diagonal or curvy and you may end up going in the opposite direction from what you intended – or a route that you think is a shortcut may turn out to be terribly long.

The euro store

2008-09-10T18:01:00.004-05:00

Buying in euros sucks.
Because I had to add 60% to anything I bought in Italy, I had to be careful not to get carried away.
In July 2008, the dollar was weak. 2.50 euros for a Coke or 6 euros for detergent wasn’t making me happy. Then I found the euro store.
Everything for ONE euro! From a loaf of bread, to cereal, to cleaning supplies and even wine!
These stores are scattered in the city and offer a great alternative for people staying for shorter periods of time. What about toilet paper, soap, shampoo, jam, juice? As you suspect already, you will find mostly surplus products from various companies, but hey, it’s only one dollar and sixty cents! And you don’t pay taxes.

What’s that for?

2008-09-10T17:58:00.002-05:00

It’s called bidet and it’s primarily used to wash your privates.
When I was a kid, I didn’t know what that ceramic sculpture-like structure was for. I used to turn it on and imagine it was an outdoor fountain.
Years went by before I found out what it was.
The bidet is a regular fixture in Italian bathrooms. I know that in the United States we are not used to this device, but it makes complete sense when you think about it. Give it a try. You'll feel like the star of one of those "nice and fresh" television commercials.

Sniff, sniff

2008-09-10T17:52:00.003-05:00

I have heard for years that Europeans smell stronger than Americans.
It’s partly true.
“I can’t stand the French!,” Fabrizio, a Florentine told me on a very hot day.
“I have already taken a second shower,” he added. My experience walking around the city suggested that not everyone had Fabrizio’s cleaning habits.
Americans strive to have a society without body odor. Italians seem to be more in communion with human nature.
Besides that, I don’t think a person can maintain an olfactory invisibility while walking in 95-degree heat for long periods of time. I tested it while traveling by underground train in Milan. No A/C, so you can imagine. Some folks were really “ripe.”

Taxi, taxi?

2008-09-10T17:42:00.001-05:00

Taxis are expensive in Italy. With gasoline going for 1.45 euro (US$2.25) a liter (there are almost 4 liters in a gallon), I avoided taxis and took them only from and to the airport. Just the flag fall is 4.25 euro (U.S. $6.60).
When you need a taxi, you call a cab company. Trying to set my departure from Florence, I called the cab company the evening before because I had heard from a colleague that taxi companies wouldn’t take reservations days in advance. The operator told me: “We are 24 hours [sic]; call tomorrow.”
The next day, one hour prior to the time I needed an airport taxi, I called again. Before I could explain anything, the operator said: “It will be there in 3 minutes.” When I said I needed it within an hour, he told me to call back when I was ready. I was getting a little worried I wouldn’t make it on time.
After rushing around and triple-checking that I wasn’t leaving anything behind, I called back.
“It will be there in 5 minutes,” he said. Three minutes later, I saw a taxi waiting on the street.
The driver was a middle-aged man, easy to talk to, but only in Italian. I am so glad I am able to make myself understand in that language.
He started the conversation by asking where I was going: “Parigi,” I responded, and from there, we didn’t stop talking until we got to the airport. He introduced himself as Matteo and asked me if I was going to come back to Florence. “Maybe next year,” I said. To my surprise, he said: “I’ll give you my address and next time you stay with us.”
He meant what he said. Hiding my surprise, I thanked him and paid my 23-euro ride that took 15 minutes.

A shadow will follow you

2008-07-22T12:40:00.008-05:00

We can't escape the stereotype of the ugly Americans.
Florentines are thankful for the goodness of tourism and what it does for their economy. But deep down, they don't really like to be invaded day in and day out, especially by loud, inconsiderate visitors.
I have seen several American tourists expecting the Italians to speak English or to bring you a glass of water as soon as you sit down in a restaurant. We are in a different country, a different culture.
Unfortunately we can't escape the image we have worked on for years. We are loud even when entering a church. Underage US teens are eager to consume alcohol. We like it when Italians hit on us for a quickie. Loud, drunk, promiscuous. I know, it's unfair. Not all of us do that but some of us do.

A matter of real estate

2008-07-22T12:30:00.002-05:00

I got stopped by tourists today and asked for directions. “I am not from here but I can help you. Where are you going”?
“To la stazione,” one of the four fair-skinned women said with a British accent.
“Do you have a map?” I asked.
They smiled while keeping their distance. Then I realized they were not as close as Italians get to you.
Everything is so close together in Florence—the city of flowers—where you hardly see flowers or trees, at least in the historical center, mostly covered by stone, cement, marble and metal. People walk with determination but not as if they were in a hurry to get anywhere. I see an array of expressions on the faces of the locals; there are not just smiles. I can observe contemplation, parsimony, peace and a touch of boredom, probably because of the daily routine.
Bodies, faces, cars, bicycles, armpit odor, breaths are in constant contact with you. A smell of urine at the corner of Piazza della Anunziata crosses my path. It doesn’t particularly bother me but it is definitely different from the space notion we have in the American Midwest. However, a person needs to be much more aware of the surroundings. Sometimes I think we need a second set of eyes on the back of our heads. Everything from a car, a bike, a scooter, a pedestrian or even a “little Gypsy thief” —as the carabinieri (police) said— can come out of nowhere.
Streets are narrow and sidewalks even narrower. I think about a Hummer trying to get through one of these streets at the same time thousands of tourists roam around the city in search of Michelangelo, Raffaello, Brunelleschi and Botticelli while carrying their cameras and water bottles.

Cappuccino, the morning drink

2008-07-22T12:26:00.002-05:00

In the United States we love to have a cappuccino, that foamy coffee and milk hot drink, sprinkled with cocoa powder. We have it anytime during the day and I have seen a lot of people asking for one during their afternoon breaks and even after dinner.
Last weekend while visiting the Corriere della Sera offices (the main Italian newspaper) in Milan, my host, design editor Bruno Delfino and foreign affairs editor Paolo Lepri took me to the cafeteria of the famous paper to have an espresso, in order to “wake” up.
“What about a cappuccino?” I asked mischeviously. Paolo smiled and said: “If you ask for a cappuccino after 12 [noon] we know you are a tourist.”

One, little two, little three, little dishes

2008-07-22T12:19:00.003-05:00

Antipasto, primo, secondo, contorno, dolci and caffè would be the food order in Italy.
It seems like a lot of food, but remember that they come in small portions.
On a daily routine, Italians have a primo that it's usually pasta and a secondo which is some kind of protein: beef, chicken, fish or cheese. The contorno or side-dish comes separate, so get prepared to pay for it additionally when you go to a restaurant. Everything comes on a different plate.
This order can be a little confusing for other westerners. To have a salad not as a first dish but after the secondo? To have cheese after the pasta?
Well, I have learned to follow the host country habits because it makes for a more authentic cultural experience. I would rather not be singled-out or laughed at because of my ignorance. Before coming to Italy I did some research about the culture.
I would recommend not to even think about asking for chicken cacciatore or Chicago pizza. You can always go to McDonald's (if you get really desperate) which has become quite popular.

Your clothes say who you are

2008-07-22T12:13:00.001-05:00

I was talking to an American student about how to blend with the Italians in Florence and realized it is not an easy task.
That so-called “European look” seems to be true. Tighter and more stylish clothes, a supposedly casual hairstyle that does not exaggerate in its preciseness and a smooth and confident walk could describe some of the Italian characteristics. Also, the Italians I have observed are thinner and some of their clothing accessories can be flashier.
Despite this flashiness, women tend to cover up a little more than we do in the U.S. Their sexiness comes more from their attitude than from their uncovered flesh.
If you are trying to blend in, avoid wide t-shirts and sweat pants. Leave your jewelry for your piercings at home, and cover your tattoos.
Men wear long pants even in the oppressive heat of summer. Light jackets seem to be the compliment to the pants. I just can’t be an Italian in the summer… no jackets for me.

I want to ride my bicycle

2008-07-22T12:06:00.001-05:00

During the first two weeks of class I walked to the school. It took me 20 minutes to navigate through people, vendors, dogs and different kinds or means of transportation in those diagonal, zig-zaggy, narrow Florence streets.
All that walking really kept the weight off from all those cheeses, pastas and delicious breads.
Last Friday I decided to ride the bike my landlady had loaned me. Somehow scared about the traffic I decided to give it a try. All of a sudden I identified more with the city.
Florentines walk and ride their bikes everywhere: school, work, the supermarket. You can see people from all ages moving on two wheels, day and night.
“Just look for a post and lock the bike,” Marta, the landlady told me. “It won’t be stolen; it’s an old bike,” she added.
Now I go to the school and the supermarket by bike. There is a little problem though: to find parking, I mean a post, since there are bikes everywhere.

Time after time

2008-07-22T06:22:00.001-05:00

In Italy, time is a malleable concept. 9 a.m. could turn into 9:10 or 5 p.m. could increase by 15 minutes.
No big deal.
Nevertheless, you will probably get a text message saying that your companion will be delayed.
So don’t get too anal about punctuality when you are not in class. Remember, this is not the United States where people arrive at least 10 minutes prior to the time agreed. That pisses Italians off.
On the other hand, don’t expect waiters to give you the bill in the middle of your dining experience and say: “whenever you are ready.” That is rude. The beauty of an Italian dining experience is not just eating savory food but spend time talking and talking. Conversation becomes the main course.

1 dollar to pee

2008-07-22T06:19:00.004-05:00

Getting a bathroom in Florence is not as easy as we are used to in the United States. Of course you can always ask the ristorante or trattoria to let you use their facilities, but it’s up to them whether they allow you or not.
However, there are a few public restrooms around the city but you gotta pay.
After arriving to the Milano Centrale train station I felt the urge. I walked around without being able to find a bathroom. Didn’t see any information office so I approached a money exchange kiosk and asked for directions. “Alla destra,” (to the right) I was told.
When I saw the universal bathroom icons I smiled. Then I faced reality. 70 Euro cents to get in, which is a little bit over one dollar.
In Venice, your waste gets more expensive: 1 Euro.

Pigeons aren’t flying rats

2008-07-22T05:58:00.002-05:00

You’ll find pigeons everywhere in Florence. Pensive marble statues, intricate wrought iron fences, elaborate building cornices become places where they land, rest, court and copulate.
Florentines seem to cohabitate with them in a peaceful way, at least more democratically than we do it in the U.S. They don’t try to chase them away. Pigeons seem to add some charm to the old city. They have become more used to human presence and do not shy away from us. Tourists feed them with crumbs when we stop to rest under the shade, and get some water to hydrate our sweaty and tired bodies.
These birds frolic peacefully in the water of fountains and fly close to us looking for anything we can offer them, maybe in exchange of allowing us to visit their ancient city.

Caffè, coffee anyone?

2008-07-22T05:37:00.002-05:00

I was raised with coffee. I think my mom mixed coffee with the milk in my bottle when I was a toddler.
So Florence is a paradise to me; coffee shops everywhere.
When I came to grad school in the US my coffee experience kind of sucked. Back in the early 90s coffee was weak and bitter. My Mexican friend used to call it “sock water.” I am very glad for the Starbucks revolution.
But there is a difference in Florence, well, in Italy. People drink a lot of coffee but in small —and strong— amounts. Don’t look for the tall, grande or venti versions. I haven’t been able to find them.
Coffee, call it espresso, macchiato, corto, lungo, cappuccino, ristretto, caffè latte, come in small cups, and if you have it sitting down at a coffee bar, at more expensive prices. Yes, sitting down in a café costs more money. I guess you are using the little space they have available in this old city.
Taking a rest during one of these tiring days walking around the city looking for unusual images I had an espresso at a coffee bar in Piazza di Santo Spirito, on the Oltrarno (the other side of the Arno river.) 2.50 Euro. Do the math. $4.25 dollars for a shot of coffee. If you go to the famous Caffè Gilli in Piazza della Repubblica you would be paying 4 euro. Ouch.
So, I have my “venti” caffe latte at home every morning, much cheaper and fulfilling. Or in moments of “need” for that extra oomph, I pay 30 Euro cents for a macchiato, from a coffee machine at the Lorenzo de’ Medici school.
Don’t cringe. The coffee is decent despite coming in a plastic cup.